Mcleod Ganj is best known for the Dalai Lama's
residence. It is a little suburb to the city, Dharamshala in Himachal Pradesh,
India. It is about 8-10 km away from Dharamshala and can be best reached by a
car or a bus. A large part of its population is that of Tibetans and it also
has a lot of Buddhist monasteries.
One way of
starting this post is by asking, 'Why travel to McLeod Ganj?'
Every time
I tried to continue after this question, I hit a dead end. So, that means I
couldn't ever write a second line. On about the fifth attempt, I realized I
blanked out because I was asking myself the wrong question. I think I'd be
better off when I write about "WHAT AWAITS YOU AT MCLEOD GANJ?"
Before I
answer that, a few things you should know about how I travelled. It was a trip
with a few friends. I travelled in September, so the weather was cool and
pleasant. I also like walking around to explore a place. It gives me time to
really absorb things and go at my own pace, literally and figuratively,
speaking. McLeod Ganj was a perfect fit because it can be best explored on
foot. I stayed at a little hotel called 'Bhagsu Heights'. Finally, I love food
and I would love a place that helps my dining experience elevate from a
customer-food-service level to complement my travelling experience where I'm
allowed a relationship with food and to let me think of it as a character to
the place. McLeod Ganj let me do that. Every single time I ate.
So what awaits
you at McLeod Ganj?
Every time
I looked out from the window, I saw mountains thickly-veiled by fog. When the
day cleared up at times, I could see a waterfall and it was my first step into
three days of serenity. Being a city girl, when I got to McLeod Ganj, the peace
of that place struck me. It was comforting. I was not alone, but I had a space
to be in touch with myself. I was also travelling in the middle of my ongoing
semester in college, so it seemed like such a good break and much needed, too.
Walk to the
Mall Road was about looking over cliffs and valleys. You could be an onlooker;
experiencing life go on with its unique mundane character. You'd still be on a
parallel, slower, calmer mental pace of life. Enter Mall Road and it's a
different scene.
You find
yourself immersed in a culture that's an amalgam of cafes (with free wi-fi
*yes, yes, us 21st-century kids tch-tch*), jewellery or accessories with a
Tibetan character to it and lots of shops to buy warm clothing. It is extremely
good quality stuff and well priced as opposed to the polarized shopping culture
in a lot of cities where either you get flimsy clothing for winters or you
succumb to insane prices at the mall. Of course, you can try your hand at
bargaining.
If you
really like to shop, you'd like to know that when you really look for things
that have a Tibetan touch to them, you'll find some interesting stuff. Like the
wrap-around long skirts they use have colours that are uniquely yet, generously
used in Tibetan culture, and broadly speaking mountainous areas. The prints and
aesthetics of these things will also be different from everything else
available in great stock with sellers, one after the other, on either sides of
the road. They also have dream catchers of all sizes in abundance. The designs,
sizes and creativity in these dream catchers is fascinating.
One
important thing about the life here is that things start shutting down around 6
p.m. Some cafes will shut down and all the sellers will clear out the road,
too. The restaurants will work for a longer time, though, the past nine p.m.
culture is not thriving here, to say the least.
If you're
not shopping, there's good news because there's so much more!
Food.
Between breakfast, lunch and dinner that we had at our hotel, we also managed
to have at least (remember: AT LEAST) two more meals or snacks every day. So
after lunch on the first day, we had wantons and something to drink at Indique,
then apricort tart, chocolate tart, coffee, tea, nana cake and carrot cake at
Moonpeak Esspresso Coffee Shop. Gluttony should be struck off from the list of
seven sins, I think. I shall list all the places we ate at, at the end of the
post.
The vibe.
Amongst some stoned people, some monks and some photographers, we also found
travellers. They were soaking the place in as much as us and that was the last step
for us to really let our hair down and enjoy. So at Jimmy's Italian Restaurant,
when we gave a friend her little birthday surprise that was overdue, we sang
the birthday song along with the staff and probably every other customer
present there. A group of men from some other country sang it thrice. Our best
guess is that it was probably drunk excitement.
We probably
only struck two patent must-do things when in McLeod Ganj off the list.
First, we
went to the Bhagsunag Waterfall. It is a little trek from the main chowk of
McLeod Ganj and when you get there, a strong wind greets you there. It feels
amazing to sit on the rock and just feel the waterfall's light shower on you as
the wind blows past. Much on snacks with your friends there or jump into the
water, if you wish. Make sure, you do the trek with sports shoes on because
even though the trek isn't long, it is tricky and it will be a test for you if
you smoke. My friends made it through the challenge. You can, too.
Then, we
went to the Tibet Museum and the Kalachakra Temple. These two are built in the
same complex. You're not allowed to take your phones or cameras inside. Did you
know that because of Tibet's conflicted status of sovereignty, much of its
culture has an increasing threat of extinction even as the culture seems to
thrive in some small parts of India? Their 11th Panchen Lama, according to boards
around the place, has been declared by the Chinese officials to be in their
custody. The Museum tells the vivid tale of Tibet's history, people and culture
to all those who would listen. It also depicts the Chinese invasion of Tibet.
It can be quite moving to read, and there was more.
"Ohm Mani Padme Hum" may mean
something to the Buddhists but to me, it is a way to reminisce and probably
return to a bit of the tremendous peace I felt at that place. After touring the
entire temple and rotating the wheels around the main shrine's complex, I sat
in the large compound under the shades. I wouldn't say I was thinking any
remotely philosophical- about life, past, future- but I was feeling something
spiritual. It was strange to not really be thinking or introspecting but just
feeling like the building blocks for growing up and for moving on were at play.
You felt more than you could put to words and the puzzlement that accompanies
this failure to explain is not uneasy at all. Instead, I just smile.
The beauty
of this place is such that you don't have to wait for aphorisms to dawn upon
your conscience. You'd be walking down a street or munching on some pie and
sipping some coffee and they will come and go and it will be as simple as that.
Find that
subtlety in life. Go to McLeod Ganj!
As
promised, here's a list of places I ate at:
1. Indique
(Rooftop Restaurant/Cafe):
2. Moonpeak
Espresso Coffee Shop and Gallery
3. Four
Seasons
4.
McLeodganj Waterfall (A stopover for Maggie, anyone?)
5. Tibet
Kitchen (You HAVE to have Chicken Momos and all Peach Beer, Lemon Beer and
Fruit Beer. And no, it's not beer.)
6. Jimmy's
Italian Restaurant
7. Clay
Oven (You can miss this)
8. Coffee
Talk
9. We also
got take-away stuff from places that I can't remember now. Sorry.
Just try as
much as you can! Apparently, Gakyi's is really good! It's right next to
Jimmy's. Don't repress the gluttony! Let it gooooo!
Tell me
more about your trips! Dying to go again. So then, I'd use your suggestions!
September 2014